Voron Sourcing Guide: Self-Sourcing a Build From the BOM

The Voron sourcing guide tells you where to buy parts, not how many. Generate a bill of materials in the configurator on vorondesign.com for your exact model, size and options, take every quantity from that BOM, and use the sourcing guide only for vendor links. Order Misumi extrusions first, get ABS printed parts moving early, and round up on fasteners.

That split is not a community opinion. Voron’s sourcing documentation says the sourcing guide “is not customized to the printer” and that its quantities “are mostly incorrect.” This page is for builders sourcing parts themselves. Buying a complete kit instead? The pre-order kit checklist covers what to verify. Still choosing a model? Start with which Voron to build.

What is the difference between the Voron BOM and the sourcing guide?

The BOM is your shopping list and the sourcing guide is a vendor directory. Voron’s documentation calls the configurator BOM “the absolute guide for what is actually required to build the printer,” while the sourcing guide is one generic sheet per model, with extra tabs for optional parts. Count from the BOM; click through from the guide.

The mix-up keeps surfacing on the forum. In a February 2025 thread, a Trident builder could not make the motor count add up; a forum administrator pointed out the file was the sourcing guide, which shows “WHERE to find items,” and sent them to the Configurator on the Trident page.

Two habits keep the order clean. Turn the downloaded BOM into a tracker with columns for vendor, quantity ordered and quantity received; with parcels arriving from several vendors, that last column is how you find a missing fastener size before the frame is half built. And round up on small items, as the documentation recommends: spare screws and connectors get used later.

Which configurator options change what you order?

Every choice in the configurator rewrites part of the BOM, so lock them in before opening a single vendor tab. On the Voron 2.4 page the wizard asks for filament feed, upgrade path, frame joints, cable chains and size; the Trident page asks the same minus cable chains.

Custom sizes are accepted, but the documentation advises against exceeding the listed maximums because larger CoreXY machines are harder to build, tune and maintain. If a 350 mm plate is too small, you need a different printer, not longer extrusions. Weighing the two full-size machines? Trident vs 2.4 covers gantry, Z and cost.

What order should you buy Voron parts in?

Buy in lead-time order: frame extrusions first, printed parts second, motion hardware and fasteners third, electronics and wiring last. That sequence starts the slowest shipments earliest, lets you square the frame while everything else is in transit, and keeps money out of electronics until the frame is standing.

1. Extrusions. A 2021 Team FDM post reported Misumi lead times from about 10 days to more than 60, depending on colour and configuration, with plain unanodised stock likely fastest. Treat that as a reason to order early, not as a current quote.
2. Printed parts. Builders in a forum thread on sourcing a Trident over a year advised getting printed parts early, through Print It Forward if needed, so the remaining purchases can follow the manual’s order.
3. Motion and fasteners. Rails, belts, pulleys, motors and screws. Pull the frame screws into the first order if you want to assemble the frame the day the extrusions land.
4. Electronics and wiring. Controller, Raspberry Pi, power supply, wire, connectors and terminals.

The same thread’s money advice: combine orders to cut shipping, buy during sales, and watch the Voron Discord’s vendor-promotion and garage-sale channels. One rule from it is non-negotiable: buy power supplies, inlets and switches from verified sources.

How do you order Misumi extrusions from the BOM?

Paste each Misumi part number from your generated BOM straight into Misumi’s search. Voron’s documentation says those numbers can be entered directly and return the exact part, including any drilling or tapping, so nothing needs configuring by hand. Order the quantities the BOM lists, never the sourcing guide’s.

Decoding a part number helps when a vendor quotes a substitute. Using the Team FDM breakdown, HFSB5-2020-420-TPW reads like this:

The sourcing FAQ says you can delete the TPW and LCP-RCP options and do the machining yourself to save about $40 USD, then concedes that tapping tools, oil and patience can cost about the same. Unless you already own a tap set and a way to drill perpendicular holes, let Misumi do it; an off-axis tapped end pulls the frame out of square.

Non-Misumi extrusion is fine once you verify the profile. The hard no is V-slot: the documentation discourages it because an MGN9 rail is close enough in width to the V-slot to cause misalignment.

Should you print the parts yourself or use Print It Forward?

Print them yourself only if your printer runs ABS or ASA reliably inside an enclosure; otherwise request a set through Print It Forward. Voron’s materials guide requires a glass transition of at least 80 °C because enclosed chambers commonly reach 55 to 60 °C, which rules out PLA and PETG for structural parts.

The documented baseline is 0.2 mm layer height, 0.4 mm forced extrusion width, 40% infill (grid, gyroid, honeycomb, triangle or cubic), four walls, five solid top and bottom layers and no supports. Stay on a 0.4 mm nozzle; the FAQ warns some parts have walls too thin for 0.6 mm. The materials guide also steers new builds away from ABS+, because its composition varies between brands.

Read filenames before slicing: an “[a]_” prefix marks an accent part, and an “_x#” suffix means print that many copies. Expect about 1.5 kg of primary colour and 0.3 kg of accent, but the documentation itself says to plan on 2 kg of primary because most people reprint a few parts and add mods. Buy that primary from one manufacturer, ideally one batch, so shrinkage stays consistent across the set, and settle flow and pressure advance before the run rather than halfway through it.

Print It Forward uses vetted providers held to quality standards, a first-come, first-served queue, and a provider who confirms details with you before printing, then arranges payment and shipping directly. Its listed prices, dated January 2023, are 80 USD/EUR for a V0.2 full set, 110 for Trident or 2.4 functional parts and 70 for Switchwire, plus shipping. Skirts, panel mounts, handles and display parts are excluded; the materials guide accepts PLA or PETG for skirts and panel clips.

Where can you save money on motion hardware and fasteners?

Save on linear rails and post-assembly nuts; spend on the bed plate and anything carrying mains voltage. Voron’s sourcing FAQ says generic medium-preload MGN9H rails are enough because carriages see no cutting side loads, and that a set of seven V2 rails costs about the same as one genuine mid-grade THK rail.

• Rails: check for play between rail and carriage on arrival, clean and grease them, then fit the smoothest on X, the next on Y and the worst on Z. MGN12 is not a substitute; its carriages are too wide for 2020 extrusion.
• Post-assembly nuts: the FAQ says ball-spring nuts from AliExpress replace the pricier HNTAJ5-5 parts “in 99% of the manual.”
• Grease: Mobilux EP1 or EP2 for rails; Super Lube or EP1/EP2 for extruder gears.
• Steppers: skip 0.9° motors on Z and E. Those axes are already geared or screw-driven, so doubling the step count only adds MCU load and limits speed.
• Bed plate: MIC6 or a named equivalent (Alpase K100-S, Alca 5, Vista Metals ATP 5). The FAQ rejects 6061 and 5052 because they warp.

What electronics and wire should you specify?

Specify a Klipper-capable board with enough stepper drivers for your model, silicone wire in Voron’s listed gauges, and proper crimpers. The FAQ notes BTT has stopped producing the historically recommended SKR 1.3 and 1.4 and names the FYSETC Spider and S6 as alternatives; faster boards work but are unnecessary because the Raspberry Pi does most of the computing.

The BOM specifies silicone insulation; PTFE (Heluflon) costs more but is thinner and slicker, which helps in drag chains. For crimpers the FAQ names the Engineer PA-09, PA-20 or PA-21 and says they are worth the cost. Order extra connectors and terminals with them, because a first loom always eats a few bad crimps. The display is optional, as many builders run the printer entirely from the web interface. When the electronics arrive, installing Klipper on a Raspberry Pi is the first software step.

FAQ

how much does it cost to self source a voron

Voron’s documentation estimates $400 to $600 for a V0, $1,000 to $1,300 for a Trident, $1,500 to $1,900 for a 2.4, and $700 to $900 for a Switchwire without existing Prusa parts. Those figures exclude tools and common building supplies, and real totals move with part choices and shipping from several vendors.

can you buy misumi extrusions as an individual

In the US, yes: builders report ordering directly from Misumi USA without trouble. Europe is harder. A February 2024 Voron forum reply said Misumi does not sell to end users there, and a 2022 Team FDM post reported a UK buyer refused as a private customer. A verified non-Misumi 2020 profile is the usual workaround.

does the voron bom include klicky or a can toolhead board

No. The configurator BOM covers the stock configuration only, so mods such as Klicky or an EBB36 CAN toolhead board are not listed, as a Voron forum reply pointed out in February 2024. Source each mod from its own project documentation, and drop any stock parts it replaces, such as drag-chain wiring.

what tools do i need to build a voron

Voron lists metric hex keys from 1.5 to 5 mm, screwdrivers, wire strippers, diagonal cutters, a soldering iron, a multimeter, metric calipers, and Molex, ferrule and terminal crimpers as required. Needle-nose pliers, tweezers, a deburring tool, small files and a precision screwdriver set are listed as helpful but optional extras.